The Art of Letter Writing

Photo: Letter from Federico García Lorca to his friend Melchor, about his “poetic mission”

Good movies inspire the kind of conversation which make afternoon walks seem airy and timeless. Especially through the charming neighborhood of Chamberí, past its old-fashioned bars and its streets full of madrileños going about their Sunday routines. We had just seen Woody Allen´s latest film “Midnight in Paris” with José and Juani, a Spanish couple in their 40´s who have never missed a single good movie.

Speaking of being transported to the past, the nostalgia of previous epoques, a city whose heart in its younger times sparked a special and intimate fondness that is sometimes difficult to revive… Jose talked about a Madrid that was his, some twenty-odd years ago, when he first moved here in his youth. He also talked about the desire to write, which in his younger days was something so essential and yet whose flame is unsustainable these days in his life as a family man. Put out by a lack of inspiration, by the greater necessities of adulthood. The balance that living life with another person can give you, so that the alone-ness, the melancholy doesn’t urge itself anymore onto paper.

How did you two meet?  I find that that is always an interesting question.

One day 26 years ago, Juani randomly caught a train to Aranjuez with some friends, where José was living at the time, a grungy teenager with long hair and a rebellious soul, like all teenagers. He was lounging around the streets with his friends that Saturday afternoon. Juani and her friends asked his group of friends for sight-seeing suggestions around the city. They walked around together, had a coffee, and became immediate friends. Before Juani departed on her train to Madrid, they exchanged mailing addresses.

I always find it difficult to imagine these past encounters; the images are always lit with a movie director’s videocamera, the hairstyles and clothes and actions are all props created for the spectator, who never will have seen this moment. Their friendship continued with letter writing, long letters with multiple pages, back and forth between Madrid and Aranjuez. José was a writer and idealist. He believed in this singular necessity.

Lord how times have changed…even in my days as a kid I still received handwritten letters and postcards in the mail, I sent cards and parodies of newsletters to my best friends, I kept everything safe in my small world of shoeboxes and drawers. Now we hardly have time to respond to emails, and the pressure of speed defeats the purpose of snail mail.

José talked about lacking a driving force which compels him to write these days. I said writing isn’t only about creativity and moodswings, it’s also time and work. Not the sludgery of a job in writing but the consistency that’s always needed to progress in anything. I believe in Muñoz Molina’s blank page of the notebook which is always kept close at hand, and which is like “the negative of the printed page:” that one writes because the necessary tools are within reach, because “the white pages inspire the desire to write, to anotate, to discover.”

I’m on a mission to keep handwritten pages alive, and traveling.

Things are heating up in Spain

After grabbing a coffee next to Retiro Park yesterday I decided to wander on down towards the center, was about to bypass Sol to catch the bus back home, but decided to do a little more walking towards the heart of Madrid, site of the famous (and adorable) Madrid bear statue.

I wasn´t really surprised to see a mass of people gathered with big signs and some guy on a microphone heating up the crowd. Manifestations like this are quite common in this part of town, and I usually never know what they are for. This time I decided to stop and look carefully; people seemed more indignant than usual, there were hordes of photographers and journalists, and the big glass hub covering the entrance to the metro station was covered with handwritten signs: “Spanish Revolution,” “Real democracy now”, “It´s not a crisis, it´s fraud”, “A roof and a job, without being a slave!” “There´s no lack of money, only too many thieves.”

On the other side of the plaza was something I’d never seen before in Sol: an entire camping ground of tents, cardboard, battered sofas, make-shift rooves. Wow…somebody has really started something. This Sunday are the elections for the City Councils and the Spanish Autonomous Communities. Huge overblown posters for candidates of both the PP and the PSOE have plagued the walls of the Metro and have lined the streets. This is the first time I’ve seen such a large and angry gathering to protest the shit politics and economy which have been the cause of the highest unemployment rate in Europe. And never a better time than now.

The manifestation started with only 20 young people who began camping out on Sunday. It snowballed, began attracting a huge crowd and even triggered similar protests in Valencia, Bilbao, Barcelona, and other European cities. A big sign read: “In this country, you can camp out for a Justin Bieber concert and the last of the Twilight series, but not to defend your rights??” And I thought YES. Thank god somebody has realized something because for a while I’ve been tired of the way things are done in this country, the lack of seriousness and responsibility, the discrepancy between the salaries that big bosses take home plus the benefits they reap on top of that vs. the measly 700 euros that immigrants can make after working hours that some people haven´t worked in an entire lifetime.

There´s a reason why I have to bat the Corte Inglés employees off me like flies everytime I want to buy a chapstick (when they are not engaged in an intense debate about where the Bardem family should settle) whereas I almost have an aneurism each time I try getting serviced at a bank or when I try getting through for the 11th time in a row to any government office – maybe because it´s 1:50 and they all actually close at 2:00 so that these hard workers can savour a long lunch with some Ribera wine, and take a well-deserved long nap before calling it a day.

Generalizations are always generalizations, but people here want to live well without working hard and without aspiring to bigger things, especially these ridiculous politicians who only have their own agenda in mind, and whose promises run more freely from their mouths than the government money used to finance their idiosyncracies.

Madrid, I´m proud of you!

Postcard from the Met

That portrait of a dog buried in the sand.
That portrait of a dog sinking in the sand.
I remember it was sepia-toned.
The difference between sunk and sinking
Perfect-ness of the action which
begs the eye to follow through,
yet it just stares
frozen like the trapped animal
When you showed me a postcard
the year we met, the faded sketch
you imagined to be a head portrait
of a tired dog. (A happy dog?)
No it was sinking in an invisible mire
of canvas, not already sunk.
Sand and not white space
in old photographs,
the dog, the poor thing,
you loved its helplessness.